Installation Instructions and User Guide. Tools Needed. Customer Service: (877) 288-7707. The Trane TZEMT524 Touchscreen Comfort. View and Download Trane TCONT800 Series owner's manual online. Touch Screen Programmable Comfort Control. TCONT800 Series Thermostat pdf manual download. Thermostat Trane TCONT824 Installation Manual (40 pages) Thermostat Trane TCONT824 Installation Manual (44 pages) Thermostat Trane TCONT 800 Series Owner's Manual. View and Download Trane TCONT800AS11AA installation instructions manual online. Touch Screen Programmable Comfort Control.

• Tcont800 Series Touch Screen Troubleshooting
• Trane Tcont800 Troubleshooting
• Trane Tcont800 Advanced Settings

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If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please. I'm building a new all electric, 3100 sq ft two story house and the HVAC has been in and running for about three weeks.

Tcont800 Series Touch Screen Troubleshooting

I've been monitoring the electrical consumption for the entire three weeks, as the HVAC is practically the only thing drawing electricity. The system is: Air Handler: 4TEE3F49A (4 ton) Heat Pump: 4TWX6 (XL16i, 4 ton) Termostat: TCONT800 Filter: CleanEffects Whole House Cleaner Insulation: 2x6 outside walls with blown in foam (the stuff that expands). All windows are double pane. It's winter here in northern Arkansas and temperatures have averaged 38 degrees during the period. I had the set point at 60 degrees for the first three weeks and electrical use has averaged 50 KwH per day (at $.079, this is $111 per month, just for the heater).

Trane Tcont800 Troubleshooting

The system blower would ramp up and down just like it is supposed to, and shut off for sometimes hours at a time. The temperature would never change at all from the set point. Looked promising but still a bit expensive.

Trane Tcont800 Advanced Settings

On the two nights when the outside temperature dipped below 27, the system would not heat the house past 58 degrees (with the thermostat set at 60). The installer came out and did a lot of checks, including adding a bit of freon, installing the registers so as to balance the system, checking the cfm, dip switch settings, output temperature (125 degrees when he checked it) and thermostat programming. This all seemed to do some good. A few days ago I bumped the thermostat up to 70 degrees. My electrical useage for the last two days has been 130 KwH per day ($307 per month).

It has been running continuously (48 hours non stop) since I set it at 70. The blower stays on high, the unit outside cycles on and off, and 'Heat On' has been on continuously in the thermostat since I set it to 70. Don't know if 'Heat On' means 'Heat Strip On', as I can't find any reference to it in the owners manual. The air temperature coming out of the registers does not seem that warm (certainly not 125 degrees). When I initially changed it from 60 to 70, it went from 60 to 68 in about an hour, but took another 4 hours to bring the temperature to 70. I went through a lot of expense with the 2x6 walls, foam insulation, double pane windows, and buying what I thought was a great 15.5 seer unit, and the installer did a great job installing and insulating the ductwork. Once I start adding hot water heaters, etc., to the house, it'll be hard to get anyones attention.

The house I just moved from in Northern Virginia (a 3100 sq ft three story with lousy insulation) had a 14 year old heat pump and my total winter electric bill was not a whole lot more than what the Arkansas heat pump alone will cost me. Can you guys confirm that this thing really shouldn't cost me $300+ dollars in the winter to run at 70 degrees? Thanks in advance. I hope you don't really have a TCONT800 thermostat. You need a 801 or 802 for that system. How complete is the house?

Is the thermal envelope finished, like attic insulation and such? Do you have a lot of recessed lighting(can lights), open fireplace dampers, etc that can cause excess infiltration? Are there any attic areas where the floor trusses between floors are open to the attic area?

If so, are the trusses sealed so that air can't get between the floors from the attic space. And most important of all. Was the system running during the drywalling and/or painting of the house? If the equipment is clean and working properly, you need to look at the building to make sure there is not something causing the load to be higher than expected. Having a blower door infiltration test done to verify the tightness of the home would be a very good idea.

I have seen several homes that used newer construction methods where the house turned out to not be anything close to as tight as expected, for a variety of reasons, and the excess infiltration caused serious issues with the HVAC equipments energy use and ability to keep up. Don't know if the Thermostat is an TCONT801 or 2. The generic owners manual says TCONT800 but the install instuctions are for an TCONT802AS32DA or TCONT803AS32DA. The thermal envelope is finished.

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All doors and windows are sealed with foam, the walls have foam (2x6 walls with insulation sawed flush with the 2x6). The attic has cellulose blown in to at least 12' thick, much more in most places. No fireplace and there are only three can lights and they are covered with cellulose in the attic. No floor truss areas are exposed to the attic. I used R30 batting for any such areas before drywalling.

The system was run starting at drywall mudding, and was run before and after painting, but not during (not run during the day but run at night). During painting, the sun provided enough heat to keep the house close to 60 during the day.

The electronic part of the filter has not be 'turned on' yet. I don't know if a load calculation was done, or if Manual J, Manual S, or Manual D were followed. I have 14 48'x48' PeachTree vinyl slider windows in the house. Not sure what the percentage of glass to wall is but it's very low. All windows and doors are storm types. The house is on a slab and the ductwork runs through the attic. The ductwork, including the returns, are well insulated.

I have no idea what the kwh/Degree Day/sq ft is. Is this something I should know or something the installer should know? The house is in the middle of the woods (tall oaks mostly). I bulldozed 80' on the north and west sides, and a bit more on the east and south, and it gets a lot of sun and not much wind. I caulked at the bottom plate and slab all the way around the house, and doors and windows are sealed with the expanding foam.

Last edited by John Silver; at 10:22 AM. Quick Navigation. Site Areas. Forums.