Ford 7710 Series 2 Manual
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To me, clutch pedal wear, brake pedal wear and drawbar hole wear mean little to nothing on those tractors. I can show you a tractor with 2000 hours and the clutch pedal is worn thin, and I can show you a tractor with 7500 hours and no wear on the brake pedals, and any other combination thereof. I'd look at the tierod ends for slop.
I'd pull the drain plugs from the hubs. I'd check hydraulic function. When the oil is warm the valves should kick out their detents at idle.
Table of contents. Safety precautions. Roll over protective structures. Universal symbols. Controls, instruments and operation. Tractor controls. Ford 7710 Series II tractor for sale in Oklahoma Ford 7710 Series II tractor SOLD! May 31 Ag Equipment Auction. Purplewave.com features used farm and ag equipment, including ag tractors, articulated 4WD tractors, track tractors, loaders and attachments at auction.
If they don't and the levers aren't stiff, suspect the pump. See if the clutch will slip when you start away quickly in sixth or seventh gear (H2 or H3). Take note of how quickly the engine starts cold and how long it makes white smoke. Those are the things to check on 7710's. Also make sure that the drawbar housing is tight. Those have been known to get torn off from running heavy. Also, a tractor that's done a lot of 3-point work will have worn balls on the lift arms and the extendable links are prone to wear and jump out at inconvienient times.
The 7710 is a pretty tough tractor overall. I've done one clutch in mine, a couple pumps, brakes, and FWD clutch along with the rear wheel bearings and a few other ancilliary things like alternators and starters. A buddy of mine has done the dual power in one of his, along with the several main clutches in two and engines in both. For what it's worth, he backed the smoke screw out about as far is it would go on both and then ran both like they were 120 horse tractors, and ran them hard at that. All things considered, he hasn't fixed much on them considering what they were through.
I'd also say his engine problems were more to do with irregular oil changes than anythign else. My clutch and brake problems along with most of the hydraulic problems stemmed from the use of incorrect oil many years ago. Otherwise the tractor has be used hard and given little trouble. The long and the short of it is that you don't have much idea of what you're getting in a used tractor until you work it for a few days. Keep that in mind when negociating the price.
BTW, I can also show you how to disable the hour meter on that tractor without affecting the tach. So the hour meter may not mean a thing. My buddy's newer 7710 shows 910 hours, looks the part in every way and has more like 9000 hours.
Ford 7710 Series 2 Manual Pdf
Just somethign to think about. Very confusing wording in your original post and your later one. All of us got off on the wrong track about a replace/rebuilt engine. How can a 1991 be a new engine when its 17 years old? Sounds like now you are meaning to sayis that it has the 'later model engine fitted on the 1991 model'.
Does he have maintenance records to back up the 2500 hours? Is it original owner? Is it second owner? Is it tractor jockey? If I priced it at 24000 and you offered me 22500, I would not budge much because you have laid your cards out that you WANT that tractor real bad.
We have a couple 7610s with loaders on them, great tractors. Connect homework accounting solutions manual. I honestly don't know where I'd be if we didn't have those 7610s. Dad says he used to have a 7600 that he really liked, but it developed some serious engine problems (lots and lots of hours) and he got rid of it. One thing I have noticed with the John Deere 2955 we have at work is that it will out work both of my dad's Ford 7610s, but the 7610s are a little bit higher horsepower.
The Ford 7710s are great tractors, I'd buy it. They're a pretty good tractor. The last of them were the best. I have an '85 with the round roof. The block was probably changed due to cylinder wall perforation which suggests that the owner probably wasn't big on cooling system maintenance. Keep DCA4 conditioner in them or change the coolant 'filter' as recomended. The hard shifting is on the 2-3/3-2 shift?
That's normal for the syncro transmission which was standard on the 77. I always double clutch them across the shift gate on that shift.
It makes things go smoother. Get in the habit of driving on the foot pedal rather than the hand throttle or your life will be miserable when it comes to shifting.
Ford 7710 Reviews
Drive it like a pickup and you'll get along fine with it. The engines are pretty well bulletproof up to about a hundred horse if you wind the smoke screw up about a turn, and MOST of them in this area were turned up. So don't be too put off if it makes a good cloud of black smoke off idle.
A 91 should have a rotary pump, but much the same principle applies. Keep in mind that it could also have 12500 hours and you'd not know the difference from looking at it if they kept everything up on the tractor. I think the price is a bit steep, but with a new loader it's probably not too far out of line for what those tractors bring around here. I'd expect that with some negociation you'll get the price to about where it should be. I have a 7710 with a cab and FWA. I think they are a pretty good tractor overall.
If this one is in fact, a 90 or 91 model as they state, then it should have the flat roof cab with the lights built in the top. This cab is a little better than the round roof style (like mine has), because the door latches are better designed.
You say that it is difficult to shift. Assuming it has dual power-does it have the 16x8 transmission or the 16x4 transmission? $24,000 is on the high side, however, if it does have a new motor, then it should last for many years, assuming it was properly rebuilt. I guess I'd have to ask the same question-if it only has 2500 hours-why did it need a new motor? If you have any specific questions feel free to ask. I have done everything on 7710's and 7700's from one end of the tractor to the other.
Very good machine, can't really fault them if they've had good maintainance (including coolant conditioner to prevent cylinder wall cavitation. Which I'd bet this one didn't have, if it has a new block at 2500 hours) BUT. I'd say it's over-priced. There was one at an auction last week, 500 hours on new motor, cab, fwa, newer loader w/ grapple, sold for $14000 (but the cab was a little rough).
If the loader on the one you're looking at is NEW, that's probably near $6000. Leaving $18000 for the tractor. I'd think no more than $15000 for the bare tractor. Maybe just my local market.