1999 22 5 Proline Boats Owners Manuals

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You could get an ear full here. I like the design of their W/A, also the deep walkaround. Is it the best boat. But you get what you pay for. I feel the product is worth the price. I recently had to replace most of my deck. The inspection hatches were not properly sealed and water made its way into the balsa filler.

Weak rub rail. Poor drainage of hatches allowing water in bilge. But, I bought my Proline 2950 new in 93. Still have no plans to get rid of it, and I am generally happy. Every boat is a compromise of some sort.

Good luck shopping. I have owned two now, a 1997 231 Walk and 1998 2950 Walk. I have been very pleased with the boats.

Most have a 19 degree deadrise, which I believe to be a good compromise between nice riding in rough water and stability at rest. Pro-lines 1995(?) and newer are made using their wood free FIST construction making rot much less of a concern. Another thing I liked about the boats is that they have a deep and wide walkaround that allowed me to fish the entire length of the boat in less than calm water = great for bottom and drift fishing. The cockpits are also a good size. The hardware such as switches and hatches and attention to detail are not top knotch but then again they do not carry the price tag of Grady or Albemarle either.

They are a solid mid tier boat that compete very will with others in its price range. Overall, I have been pleased with the boats and would not hesitate to own another. I think the Proline 20 walk should not be compare to any of the other bigger 23+ Proline boats. Many of the new Proline hulls are carry over from the Donzy Brand and thus the problems are carry over to. The 20 walk was the first no wood Proline boat designed by a Proline team of engineers targeting a specific market of boater looking for an all around fishing hull that would be affordable and seaworthy. In that context I think they achieve their goal.

I bought mine in 1995 the first year this model came out and up to this date and after all the punishment I have inflicted to the poor thing I can honestly say it 's got what it takes. You do get the occasional losse rub rail, and a few little things you'll think they could have design better like the rod carrier, a bigger fuel tank (with those new 4 strokes or DFI it is probably fine, I have carb) but overall you get a seaworthy hull that I have taken 20 miles offshore with the confidence it will take me back if seas get rough. When I bought it in 1995 it was rated for 150 hp, and now I think it is rated for 200hp.

I don't think they reinforced the hull to handle 200hp only that they were cautios in 1995 with the new model and didn't want to take chances and after it prove itself they rate it for 200hp. If you see todays specs, this boat is 200 pounds lighter that when I bought it. I saw this hull in a boat show last year and I was glad to see that it haven't change after almost 10 year except for a few ergonomics changes in the cockpit area. Unless I can afford a much bigger boat (bigger problem) in the future I wouldn't trade my 20 walk for a similar size boat, specially after all the equipment I have personally installed (Sounder, Trimtabs, rod holder arc, flush toilet, wash down pump, etc). Right now I am researching those new 4 strokes or maybe a DFI and considering repowering in the near future. Hope it helps.

I have a 1996 20' WA. I have been very pleased with the boat. I bought it with a 115 hp Merc to get good gas mileage and cheaper. The design is very good, have camped out a few times in it. I ski behind it a lot and fish. Taken all over Chesapeake, including a trip from Ches Beach to Chrisfield-4 hr return trip in some very heavy seas.

If I had to do again, I would get 150hp or maybe 175hp. Problems with the boat-I found a little piece of paper in the gas tank that kept getting sucked into the intake and causing it to stall occasionally. It was in there when I bought it, but it took me 2-3 summers to figure out what was going on. Trim gauge only lasted first summer, I did find there was a small void in the hull when I had some repair done after I damaged the hull hauling out at the ramp- a small area that should have been full of styro or glass. It was filled in with the other repair, not a major problem. Am looking to get a bigger boat now, but have been very happy overall with my Proline WA. It will take a lot for a small boat.

. Owner’s Manual Pro-Line 20 / 22 Walk Models Copyright 1996-99 Pro-Line Boats Inc., P.O. Box 1348, Crystal River, FL 34423. All rights reserved.

06-11-03 Specifications subject to change without notice. Actual boats may vary from drawings. Table of Contents I Introduction Dealer / Customer responsibilities Registration Insurance II Safety Regulations Equipment Passenger safety Rules of the road Hazardous conditions Alcohol Carbon monoxide Fire Flooding III Controls Ignition Choke Safety shut down Shift / Throttle / Trim Steering Instruments: Fuel Gauge, Water Temperature, Volt, Tachometer, Speedometer, Trim, Options. Stainless Steel/ Aluminum Canvas Upholstery: Vinyl, Fabric Corrosion Protection Winterization, Storage, Mooring VIII Appendix Boat ID Trouble Shooting Chart Nautical Terms Specifications Warranty. 20 WALK SPECIFICATIONS L.O.A21’8” (6.64m) BEAM8’5” (2.50m) DRAFT – HULL.15” (0.38m) DEADRISE19 FUEL CAPACITY70 GALS. (265.0L) WEIGHT – HULL()2100 LBS (935kg) WEIGHT – TRAILER ().4500 LBS (2041kg) COCKPIT AREA81 SQ.FT.

(24.69m²) COCKPIT DEPTH.22” (0.56m) BRIDGE CLEARANCE5’10” (1.78m) W/TOP.8”0” (2.44m) MAX. HP200 (149.14kw) BAITWELL CAPACITY.27 GAL (102.2L). Introduction Congratulations!

You are now the proud owner of a new Pro Line 20/22 Walk Sport fishing boat. Welcome into the proud family of satisfied Pro Line owners. Every expedition lets you enjoy the outstanding features designed into every boat we construct. Your new Pro Line is more than just a boat, it's a lifestyle. Sight signal (flare- night, orange flag- day) when in coastal waters or great lakes. Anchor and sufficient line In addition, here is a list of suggested equipment you should have aboard your Pro Line:. First aid kit and blankets.

Give way to craft under sail. Hazardous Conditions Keep track of weather developments and avoid hazardous conditions if possible. When forced to operate your Pro Line in storm conditions:. Wear PFD's. Stow loose gear and equipment. Place heavy items as low as possible.

To ensure proper function always attach the lanyard securely to the operator. Shift/ Throttle Your Pro Line can be ordered with several different shift/ throttle systems. Refer to the owner's packet to find the manual pertaining to your particular installation. Actual Binnacle will vary depending on Engine Package Steering Your Pro Line is equipped with a self contained hydraulic steering system.

When the steering wheel is turned the helm pump pumps fluid to the steering cylinder, causing the boat to turn. Always check the operation of the steering before starting the engine. Instruments Your Pro Line's instrumentation will vary from model to model and engine to engine, therefore the following descriptions are general; refer to your engine manual for specifics. Fuel Gauge Differences in temperature, humidity, speed and trim can affect the actual accuracy of this gauge in service. Lights are also provided for the cockpit, helm and head. Breaker Switches The wiring on your Pro Line is protected by circuit breaker or fuse.

Breakers are located beside the switches or on the main breaker panel on the transom panel. If a device stops working first suspect the circuit breaker is tripped (or fuse blown). Best fantasy football picks 2018.

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Raw Water Filter, Baitwell/Washdown Pump, Sea-cock (shown in the open position) Fuel / Oil System The fuel tank on your Pro Line is made of heavy gauge aluminum with internal baffling to minimize sloshing. The tank is vented overboard, inspect the vent for obstructions regularly. Fuel Water Separator Bilge Pump Remote Oil Tank Head / Waste If your Pro Line is equipped with a portable head refer to the manual supplied in your owner's packet. Pro Line makes no recommendations to the suitability of accessories that are not listed in the Pro Line sales literature. Any unapproved modifications or additions to the standard or optional system are done at the owners risk and void the warranty. Trailering and Launching Consult your trailer manufacture for specific information relating to your particular trailer.

Pro Line does not make or recommend the use of any particular trailer. Make sure the trailer you use is certified. Consult your state authority for state regulations pertaining to trailering a boat.

Launching-. If possible use a lookout. Back down the ramp until wheels are under water or the stern of the boat just starts to float ( keeping perpendicular to the shore). Loosen bow strap, board the boat, lower the motor. Start the engine and check the bilge for leaks. When loading your Pro Line always:.

Maintain a balance both port to starboard and bow to stern. Keep heavy items as low as possible.

1999 Proline 241

Make sure engine cooling water intakes are submerged. Lock helm seats to face straight forward. Attach safety lanyard. Start the engine in accordance with the manufactures recommendations.

After your engine starts make sure to observe a few basic rules to ensure that the engine is functioning properly:. Verify engine cooling water circulation.

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1999 Proline 200

Trim Conditions Prop If your Pro Line was ordered with a factory installed engine it will have a propeller that has been performance tested to provide the best all-round performance for your engine /hull combination at sea level. In some situations, it may be desirable to re- prop your Pro Line to enhance desired performance needs. Fiberglass / Gel Coat The gel coated fiber glass on your Pro Line provides a smooth easy to clean and maintain surface. Regular cleaning and waxing will preserve the finish on your boat for many years to come. Stainless Steel / Aluminum Stainless steel is used on bow rail and deck fittings on your Pro Line. Stainless is corrosion resistant but not corrosion proof. If used in contact with sulfides, chloride salts, or rusting metals, stainless will show rust spots, discolor or corrode.

1999 Proline 221 Walkaround

The grain structure of stainless, when modified by welding processes has increased susceptibility to micro- corrosion (invisible to the unaided eye) and embrittelment. If you moor your Pro Line in salt water for extended periods make sure to check the anti-corrosion anode often for operation. Make sure the anode surface is exposed and not caked with corrosion and scale. If the anode is eroded renew it.